66 days on the road, 4,500 kilometers, sleeping in a tent every night.
On the way back, we’ll take the easiest route across the Alps via Graz and Bruck an der Mur to Vienna—pass elevation 950 meters above sea level.
Monaco is the first country we ever travel through by bike. Bohemia in the Czech Republic is the place where we, as cyclists traveling with a tent, enjoy the freedom of travel and the simple life to the fullest. We now have Pilsner Urquell at home. In the competition for the most interesting major cities, Vienna comes out on top, leaving Prague, Ljubljana, Cannes, and Genoa in second place. The highest point of the tour is Mont Ventoux (1,900 meters above sea level). We meet the most interesting people from cultures far removed from our own at a garden campground in Slovenia. Charlie, Robert, and Joshi are from Australia and Japan—they are incredibly curious and unafraid of the unknown.
One of the most beautiful campgrounds is in Vipara, Slovenia. The owner of the former farm impresses us with her hiking tips—including maps—and the immaculately maintained campground. The restrooms are stylish and brand-new. If you do not have a (weather-proof) tent, you can sleep in the dormitory on the threshing floor for a small fee. The surrounding area is fantastic for hiking and biking. The tiny village has a bar and a pizzeria. Two kilometers away, there is a supermarket, sports facilities, and much more.
We eat most of our ice cream in Italy: gelato with an espresso macchiato. We find the highest concentration of campgrounds in France. The French-Italian Côte d’Azur, including the Maritime Alps panorama with its snow-capped mountains, is a true feast for the eyes. Despite the heavy tourism, we find lovely spots for ourselves and our tent.
Our tour through the Austrian regions of Styria and Lower Austria leaves little to remember. The only highlight is the Winkelmayerhof in Upper Styria, a real gem. When we arrive, we receive a more than friendly welcome. We have a great camping area with lush grass, lounge chairs and hammocks. There is a common room where we can stay comfortable in case of bad weather. First-class restroom facilities and a refrigerator. Plus, donkeys, a horse, goats, a pig, chickens, and an emu quietly going about their business around us. Just around the corner is a bakery, and a kilometer away is a Spar supermarket that has everything.
If you are cycling along the Danube, we recommend the friendly, privately run Camping in Au in Upper Austria. It features a large tenting area, campfires—a rarity outside the Czech Republic—Danube floodplains, a cultural stage, and everything else you could possibly want..
After crossing the Czech border, we bike home.
In Zellingen am Main, we meet the three sisters from Marburg-Elnhausen. For the past 22 years, they cycle together every summer with fully loaded bikes (without any support!), three small tents, sleeping pads, and no table or chairs. Simple life! The oldest of the three is now 82 years old and more than happy to enjoy the freedom of travel. They plan to go to Vienna this year. They, for sure, will find a few tips for exploring the city on our blog. We still have fifteen years to go before we have that much experience.
The hottest trip of the journey is 130 kilometers long, from Darmstadt to Marburg. Our last stop is in Frankfurt, where we decide whether, with temperatures at 38 degrees Celsius, we should not just take the train home after all.
