The only gem we found along the Danube is Au. It is a real hive of activity here on Corpus Christi weekend. The Danube, with its floodplains and a small harbor, is truly picturesque here. The campground is located behind the dam by a small lake where people go fishing. There is a tent field with room for anyone who wants to camp, a fire pit, and picnic benches.
We meet the Czech couple here on their scooters. Hats off to them! That would not be for us. They plan to go all the way to Innsbruck and then over the Brenner Pass. Their pace is much slower than ours. However, we feel like heading straight north to the Czech Republic, to the nature-loving Czechs who enjoy all kinds of outdoor sports. So our destination is set. Shortly before Linz, we leave the Danube Cycle Path and head into the hilly hinterland toward the Czech border. In South Bohemia, we cycle into.
Camping on the Vltava River at Kemp Nove Spoli near Český Krumlov: Besides us, there are countless canoeists here paddling down the Vltava and landing at the campground for the night. The whole family spends Saturday of the last long weekend in early summer on a beautiful green meadow, playing soccer, Frisbee, and enjoying the fire pit. It reminds us of the old days—the Auerbach weekend in early July. Only the restroom facilities are a cut above the rest.
This moderately difficult low-mountain stage through the magnificent region of South Bohemia is beautiful, if strenuous. There are plenty of cyclists on the road, so we spur each other on and keep each other motivated. We make stops in Český Krumlov and Český Budovinje (Budweis). As we ride into Budovinje, “O Joy, Beautiful Spark of the Gods” rings out from the town hall.
Camping on the Luznice (Kemp Peonirak): Aside from us, the birds, a few croaking frogs, deer, hares, and a munching muskrat, there’s no one else here. The weekend guests have already left. Wild camping with all the luxuries: a hot shower, nice restroom facilities, a fire pit, and ice-cold draft beer.
Next comes another stage through the low mountain range toward Prague. At the end, the water taxi takes us across the Vltava River. The captain helps us carry our 40-kilo bikes down the stairs onto the boat and, in return, lets us ride for free. Just four kilometers and a 160-meter climb to go until we reach our destination. We camp at the ‘Camping of cherries’ just before Prague-Slivenec. Michal, the young owner, converted the farm’s barns into high-quality restroom facilities, complete with a washing machine and dryer. The little village of Slivenec has a beer hall, a delicious restaurant, and a tram connection to Prague.
In Prague, we happen to be there for the opening of the Praha Vinohrady Tartan Track. https://www.prazskypatriot.cz/u-vinohradske-sokolovny-ma-atleticky-oval-novy-povrch-po-tom-starem-behal-filmovy-zatopek/ The sports complex is like a trip back in time to the socialist era. And us? All alone among the Czechs.
We take another look at the legends of Czech track and field: Emil Zatopek, nicknamed “the Locomotive,” and Jarmila Kratochvilová, who has held the world record for two laps of the stadium for more than forty years.
Camping on the Berounka River just outside Pilsen. A meadow campground filled with excited, running-around children, canoe enthusiasts, and other adventurous people who are not bothered by the rainy weather at all and are all pitching their tents. At the kiosk, you can get everything for a small price: a place to stay, a hot shower, and all the food and drink your heart desires. Even the delicious Hermelin—Czech Camembert. Unexpectedly, in the evening, there is music played on the Czech harmonica by three musicians and a handful of singers. Alone among Czechs.
In the Czech Republic, the currency is the Czech koruna. People speak Czech there. There are no laws regulating store closing times, and no money is spent on prohibition or informational signs. The Czech Republic is a great place for camping, biking, and canoeing. Life here is spontaneous. You do not need to make reservations for lodging or food. There is plenty of room for everyone. We missed out on the “Spanish Bird.” We found out too late that it is actually a beef roulade—a Czech specialty. We will definitely try it next time.
We leave the Czech Republic with a touch of sadness, even though the weather is getting worse every day. The temperature is dropping. The sky pours down rain at short intervals, often accompanied by hail. On top of that, the road winds up and down.
We really enjoyed the country, with its great campsites and its nature-loving, freedom-loving people.