‘From the eternal glaciers of the Mont Blanc massif to the sun-drenched peaks of the Maritime Alps: the French Alps offer a dramatic landscape that is second to none. As the home of Europe’s highest mountain and the setting for legendary Tour de France passes, the region captivates outdoor enthusiasts and’ … ‘Alpine traversers.’ That’s how it reads on the Alpine portal. Spectacular mountain panoramas, unspoiled wilderness in the national parks.
We’ll be cycling through the High Alps for two weeks. Our base camps are located at elevations ranging from 750 meters in Val d’Isère to 1,000 meters above sea level on the edge of the Ecrins. Sometimes we’ll climb the passes without our luggage, and sometimes with it. Sometimes we’ll take the cable car. We spend five days at the beautiful Le Grand Calme campground in Allemond. Early in the morning, the ambitious amateur cyclists—often from the Netherlands—get ready and ride past the campground toward the mountain passes..
It’s the last week of August. School starts again in France on September 1. Then things will wind down here. Stores will have new, limited hours or close altogether. Our favorite grocery store and hangout has its shutters down. The cable cars will run for the last time on August 30. Higher-altitude ski resorts will close completely.
To the Mountains and Lakes with L’Alpette
We make the most of the week and take the L’Alpette up to an altitude of 2,000 meters. The ‘La ronde des lacs’ lake loop takes us through the countryside, past several lakes: lacs Besson, Rond, Noir, Faucille, Carrelet et Lamat.
Via the Col d’Ornon, we leave behind the paradise of Tour de France enthusiasts and passionate cyclists. Cycling along the Ecrins National Park on a magnificent route, we leave the ski resorts behind us. Glaciers, waterfalls, lakes, and alpine pastures characterize the landscape. There are over 150 mountains here that rise above 3,000 meters.
Our destination along the bike path is the organic farm ‘Le Champ des Cimes.’ Yves, who just opened it last year, gives us a warm welcome. “Yes, we are lucky!” is his second sentence. He truly appreciates where he lives, knows every rock in the area, and soon suggests routes for the rest of our trip. We spend wonderful hours here in solitude, under the most beautiful starry sky, interrupted only by the roosters that wake us up early in the morning.
The Col de Cayolle takes us to the far southeast of France. The last few kilometers wind through the Mercantour National Park, which borders the Italian region of Piedmont. Marmots let out warning calls. The park features secluded lakes, lush green meadows, dark forests, wild gorges, and majestic 3,000-meter peaks.
1,800-meter descent into the Val de Var. We have seen enough, climbed enough, marveled enough. We are done with the high mountains for this season.
If you have the time and inclination, you can hike around the Ecrins National Park on the Grand Randonnée (GR) 50, a 317-kilometer trail. In addition to unique nature experiences, you will pass through small but charming towns within the national park.