“And even when the weather’s bad, people are still walking around in T-shirts. If it gets even worse, they do not go out at all,” Elliot tells us. We arrive at the Mediterranean after two and a half weeks of perfect spring and cycling weather. It is stormy, and the sea is raging. A few hours later, it is pouring rain.
We run into Elliot just before the entrance to the Montauroux Campground. What a stroke of luck—the campground is opening today. The manager is there to rent out a cabin to him. We are able to stay there, too. Elliot is on his way to Greece. It is his first trip, between his bachelor’s and master’s degrees. He is excited to hear our stories and experiences. We are happy to hear his. He shares stories and insights about young and old, people from southern and northern France, the economy, and racism. It is an entertaining evening before we cycle on to the Côte d’Azur, the coast of the rich and famous.
We follow the French section of EuroVelo (EV) 8. The EV8 is the Mediterranean long-distance bike route stretching from southern Spain to Turkey, with signage that varies in quality. Here on the built-up and traffic-heavy Côte d’Azur, it clears the way for us. But it is far from being just a coastal bike route—it takes us into the nearby hinterland. Just seven kilometers past Nice, the route climbs into the Maritime Alps, which very quickly reach peaks over 3,000 meters above sea level. We ride up the “Grand Corniche” with its steep climbs to the Col d’Eze at 507 meters above sea level. It is also the training ground for local cyclists, some of whom—like pack mules—shout “bon courage” to show us their appreciation..
On the Grande Corniche—one of three coastal roads leading toward Menton and the Italian border—we cycle around the Principality of Monaco. We share the road with just a few cars. In Menton, we are lucky again and settle into a campground in a fantastic location. Camping Saint Michel is perched above the rooftops of Menton.
The next day, we bike to Monaco. We discover a “new” country in Europe!
Monte Carlo in the microstate of Monaco is an artificial concrete oasis, much like Las Vegas, Miami, Batumi, and other “dream destinations” for the super-rich and the wannabe-rich. They take elevators down to a small man-made beach. Real estate agencies, jewelers, exclusive furniture stores, and even more luxury can be found here. Small theme parks, such as the Jardin Petite Afrique with its exotic plants, provide the greenery. The five Pixiklos in the garden seem more than out of place. There are 7,000 Monegasques and just under 40,000 residents of numerous nationalities. According to the travel guide, there is one police officer for every 65 residents. Petty crime is virtually nonexistent. Despite an immense housing shortage, there are no homeless people. Anyone who stands out is expelled from the country (dropped off 500 meters further on in France). Traffic and numerous construction sites create a constant level of noise. Here, too, the road runs close to the coast, constantly winding up and down. We zoom down a stretch of the winding Formula 1 track, past the casino, refusing to let the Porsche Carrera shake us off, and feel like Lewis Hamilton. Soon, it will be closed again to the fastest men in the world.
We are really looking forward to returning here after our trip to the equally large city of Menton. It feels natural, bustling, and lively. It is 1,000 meters from the beach promenade and Menton’s Old Port to the Italian border. Still French, yet already noticeably Italian. A good mix of different temperaments. Someone is singing in the pedestrian zone. People are fishing in the harbor. The first sunbathers are already lounging on the beach in bikinis. Here we have our local grocery store, our favorite spot by the harbor, Bull McCape’s Irish Pub, and—130 meters higher up—the Saint-Michel campground, with a panoramic view from our tent.
‘The Alps and the Sea’: The scenery along the Côte d’Azur, the hinterland, Provence, and the Maritime Alps is simply magnificent. The photos cannot even begin to capture it. Our route to the Côte d’Azur takes us through the beautiful Luberon, with views of the snow-capped peaks of the Western Alps. We pass through the Verdon Gorges and spend the night at the 1-star campground (Camping Paradies) in the charming village of Cotignac.
We benefit from the lack of space. At campgrounds, we are sometimes able to get a discounted rate as travelers with a tent and without a motorized vehicle. Plus, we travel without relying on external power sources. Owners of large RVs have a tough time. Expensive sites, narrow roads, and steep, winding driveways make them break a sweat. If everyone here drove a Citroën Ami or a Fiat Topolino, we would be much better off.
Last but not least, here is something for foodies: The French potato chip company “Brets” was founded in 1995. They now have a huge market share. Here is what it looks like in supermarkets these days:
As you can see, they come in countless flavors. Our current favorite is “Fromage du Jura.”
For true pros, we recommend these:
When you open the bag, it smells like stinky feet—but they taste great.