The Ligurian Riviera is the continuation of the French Côte d’Azur from Ventimiglia to La Spezia, where Tuscany begins. We pass through the glamorous seaside resorts of the Belle Époque—Ventimiglia, San Remo, Imperia, Finale, Allassia, Andora, and Varazza..
We follow the Pista Ciclabile del Ponente Ligure, a bike path built on a disused railroad right along the coast. It is exclusively for cyclists and hikers—no car traffic. Small exhibits featuring photos and memorabilia from the history of cycling line the tunnels—a vibrant tribute to the sport. Pure pleasure. It is Saturday, and there are plenty of cyclists, racers, day-trippers, and families out and about with us.
The chic beach resorts give way to pebble beaches. Then comes the metropolis of Genoa, which is so much more than just its port. A medieval city center with narrow alleys, churches, palaces, arcades, Art Nouveau villas, countless small shops, bars, cafés, and ice cream parlors—all amid a pleasant bustle.
We have not seen as many French people abroad as we have here in Liguria. There is a real international mix here—Americans, Germans, Italians, … At our campground of the same name in Rapallo, there are also Swiss, Portuguese, British, Belgians, Dutch, and an Irishman staying. Western Europe is all here. We are adjusting our travel plans to the unpredictable weather and using the campground as a base from which to explore the region.
We explore the Cinque Terre on foot in one day: five villages nestled in stunning, exposed locations along the winding Mediterranean coast.
Next up is a relaxing day in Rapallo Bay to rest our weary limbs. Then we cycle to the famous village of Portofino. Hollywood starlets, rock stars, designers, and politicians have been flocking to this former fishing village for many decades. It is bustling with tourists during the second week of May. The weather is always better than the forecast.
To celebrate our 33rd wedding anniversary, we thought about booking a suite with a balcony and ocean view at the famous Hotel Splendido in Portofino. But €3,300 just is not worth it to us. Instead, we stock up on culinary treats and Sicilian beer and bike back to our base in Rapallo—€33 per night. Perfect!
