We reach the French Jura once again across the green border. We are in chiller mode and stay in Pontarlier for three days.
The next stage through the high Jura seems promising, always undulating at an altitude of 1000 metres and a rapid descent at the end. However, a strong headwind turns the enjoyable ride into a struggle.
The places we pass seem to be threatened with extinction. Many dilapidated houses with and without “à vendre” signs; there are no more bakeries or shops anyway. Just as few children, schools, … Some faded signs and dilapidated ski lifts point to times long past as a popular winter sports region. The places we pass seem to be threatened with extinction. In Chaud-des-Pres there is at least a small shop in the former school with a café and for us a coffee with milk and biscuits.
Our destination for today is the only town in the area, Saint-Claude. It does not make an inviting impression either. The supermarket is half empty – a strange atmosphere in the city.
Camping Le Martinet Onlycamp is beautiful and the starting point for the “Col de Magnard” which we climb the following day.
We reach the “L’Ain” department and everything immediately becomes more attractive. The towns present themselves with good infrastructure. The weather is getting better, the light brighter.
On the way to Lac du Bourget, a mountain range – Col de Chat – stands in the way. But the nice little men have dug a brand new 1.5 kilometre long cycle tunnel through the mountain. One less col to master. Thank you!
Starting in Pontalier, continuing in Saint Claude, in Culoz, at the foot of the Grand Columbier and in Chambéry: signs everywhere point to the Tour de France and upcoming road closures due to the individual stages. We are excited and will once again take part in the Tour de France as admiring fans and look for and find the cycling heroes. The strategically located ‘Lac de Carouge’ campsite provides us with accommodation and we travel to the 18th stage at the foot of the “Col de la Madeleine”.
We climb up the Col de la Madeleine to the applause of the numerous spectators along the route until, after ten kilometres, a friendly gendarme asks us (and all the other cyclists) to walk from now on. We do not want to walk and stay where we are. It is a perfect place to take a look at the route that winds its way up here … and to take out the advertising caravan. We have never picked up so much stuff before. Then the athletes come.
It is striking that the racing cyclists, most of whom are still very young, look so fresh on TV, but here on location and live they look quite old and drawn. Professional cycling is no walk in the park after all. The Col de la Madeleine is the second Hors Catégorie (HC) pass of this stage. This is followed by the Col de la Loze, a tough 26 kilometres uphill.
In the evening at the campsite, we sit on the ground next to our tent. Our friendly neighbours, Dutch families all around, bring us chairs. Then they bring a table with a lamp and two ice-cold beers from the rented fridge next door. We can also charge our mobile phones. Thank you for including us in your community. We will always remember such hospitality.
We fall blissfully asleep. Astrid lies on the new mat for the first time today, wonderfully soft after two months on the old one without air 🙂