On the Eurovelo 10 (EV10) which goes once around the Baltic Sea coast, we cycle almost to the border with Russia. Thanks to Topi’s cycle map. From west to east, as far as we can. We get over saying ‘goodbye’ to Helsinki – after all, we will be back – and we are already enjoying nature again. Two deer sprint across the field next to us. We pass Porvoo, the second oldest town in Finland. It has a pitoresque, touristy appearance.
Loviisa, our next destination, is a lovely medieval town on the Baltic Sea, a bit like time has stood still. An inviting bathing spot and we are at one of the most beautiful campsites in Finland, lovingly prepared and run.
These medieval towns in the south of Finland are different from the German towns Heidelberg, Tübingen and Marburg. The Finns come here on vacation. There is room for everyone. The weather is fantastic. We eat homemade rhubarb pie in a garden café. Rhubarb is available until September. The currants are almost ready to harvest.
It is a good thing we did not head south to Tallinn on the ferry from Helsinki. Our curiosity about this country, its people and what happens in the east is great. We rejected Lapland because of the mosquitoes, but discovered the Valkmusa National Park, the small Lapland in the south of Finland.
In Kotka, a town of 50,000 inhabitants, there is a four-day sea festival, 200,000 people, a state of emergency…. in sparsely populated Finland. We are handed an energy drink when we enter. It is good for us in the shade at 30 degrees. We pitch our tent in the National Urban Park. There is running water and a particularly nice breakfast spot.
Kotka once protected Sanct Petersburg as an offshore fortress. Now Kotka is the last big town before the border. The irony of fate is that the EV 13 ‘Iron curtain Trail’ meets the EV 10 here. Last year we rode it from Wroclaw all the way to Slovenia. The Iron Curtain has been a reality here again for two years – 1340 kilometers along the border with Russia. Both the European route and the cycle path are closed. Passenger trains from Sanct Petersburg and Moscow are suspended. The route to Sanct Petersburg is closed. Sad! Back to Helsinki. One last stop in Loviisa. It is sauna day! A worthy conclusion. The journey towards Finland’s east and our Scandinavian adventure comes to an end.
